Blog Archive

WALTER BONAME, RIP. WISHING TON A SPEEDY AND FULL RECOVERY.

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

hawks and umm.... "pelicans"



crazy wizard dude that was hanging out



I hereby declare cypress trees to be "awesome"



Does this look like a sculpture of a pelican to you?



Folks here in Appalachicola drink beer mostly, and leave the whine to the yuppies.



Hawk that was chilling on a marker in the channel in Florida

stuff to look at



awesome chair carved from teak in florida



big sun



what you feel like when you read blogs that are too verbose and talk about politics



florida bridge at night



Appalacicola lady painting. Pretty cool and stuff.

more pictures of things and stuff



the lord



thought this was a cousin of bird of paradise, but I was dead wrong



"Ruth's hat-" the hat, not the band



sunset on the waterway



sunset sliver

The barracuda series



Ah, fishing.




alligator video on the okeechobee

SNAPALAP



A face only a hungry mother could love



John Fogerty's Dream house



Shawn Brants's dream house



Ruth and our pet catfish "Fishstickdinner"



Cow of rare distinction on the Okeechobee

Some last blogs, stay tuned for movies and photos though

Ruth's Bloggy Bloggity Blog -

MONDAY NIGHT(April 14th) /EARLY TUESDAY MORNING (April 15th): HARBOR
ISLAND

I left off at my "what could be better?" blog that described the most
wonderful day ever, spent swimming and snorkeling at the "pink sand"
beach at Harbor Island. It was an extraordinary day and we enjoyed a
relaxing evening eating Grouper fillets and enjoying the sunset. We
fell asleep soundly in each other's arms. All was well.
Until…
We awoke simultaneously to the howling of the wind. Based on the sound
I figured it was blowing at about 25 mph with 30-35 mph gusts. This
was extreme! The boat started rocking back and forth almost
immediately after the wind began howling. The front had approached,
and it didn't take long for the wind to awaken the seas. It all
happened so suddenly. (This was why we had decided to anchor at
Harbor Island in the first place).
Soon after awakening we began to hear the trickling of rain. Being
familiar with this sudden approach of the weather, we assumed a
downpour would quickly follow. Using clothing pins, we pinned one of
our tablecloths underneath the area of the cover top that leaks when
it pours. (We used this system earlier in the week during strong
winds and rain, as well as other times throughout the trip). Without
communicating, we broke into action! I love having our systems down!
Jack stepped outside and started lowering the engine. I felt relieved
for this, for I was thinking the same thing – strong winds could
cause
our anchor to drag in which it would be handy to have the engine
lowered and ready to go. He encouraged me to step outside to
experience these crazy winds. They were loud and strong, blowing
harder by the second! No sooner did I poke my drowsy head out, taking
one stumbling step outside with my sleepy foot, did Jack firmly yet
urgently state "We're dragging anchor."
BOOM! I spun my head toward the front of the boat. BOOM! BOOM! I
witnessed the bow slam HARD twice into the back end of a tall, 22 ft
unoccupied fishing boat carrying two 50 HP engines on its stern! My
mind raced - Did we hit the boat or did we hit the engines? NO TIME TO
THINK. TAKE ACTION.
Jack raced to the front of the boat to pull up the anchor as I
drowsily took seat at the engine, stepping into a big pot of soapy
water on the way! I almost laughed at myself. I pushed the
water-filled pot out of the way, and with soaking foot, blurry eyes,
and dreamy perception I started the engine and waited for Jack's
signal to pull out. Our bow was SO CLOSE to the fishing boat! I was
SURE we were going to knock into it again! As Jack pulled up the
anchor, I concentrated on steering our boat away from the fishing boat
while at the same time keeping us oriented enough so that Jack could
easily pull up the anchor. I was COMPLETELY disoriented! Because a) I
was half asleep, b) the chaos was startling, c) during the night the
wind had spun our boat around and was now facing the opposite
direction than when we had fallen asleep and d) I wasn't wearing my
contacts – therefore everything was dark and fuzzy, all shadows
blended to create black holes, an absurdly incomplete picture!
As I'm steering, waiting, watching wide-eyed, Jack calls out behind
him to me that the anchor is caught in the fishing boat's line! All I
could do was keep us pointed away from the fishing boat yet make sure
I wasn't cranking the gas so that Jack could work on freeing our
anchor from its line. Madness.
After an agonizing wait (which probably took less time than it felt)
Jack calls out "We're Free!" and I crank up the juice and turn the
boat HARD to port (which is where Jack directed me to turn – I
honestly had NO sense of direction at this point!) I turn sharply into
thhe darkness, trusting Jack's command, not knowing myself if I was
turning straight toward shore or into another boat!
We made a mad dash across the bay. Even though the wind had JUST
picked up, the waves were a few feet high, steep and choppy! I could
barely see, and might as well have had my eyes closed! I realized
eventually that the wind was coming from the northwest, but actually
knew my sense of direction based on the sound of the wind on either
side of my head blowing loudly passed my ears and based on the
bouncing of the boat over the oncoming waves. My midnight adrenaline
was high.
As if things weren't chaotic enough, a few hundred feet out the engine
slowed and came to a stop! I recognized the sound as the engine being
out of gas!!! As soon as we came to a stop, the wind began pushing the
boat backwards FAST – towards shore, towards the crowded anchorage
full of thirty or more fishing boats and lines! We were moving at a
RAPID pace. I could make out the lights of the shore growing bigger in
my hazy vision.
Jack acted quickly: he jumped up to the bow and threw out the anchor
–
only to realize that the anchor was dragging as fast as the boat was
moving backwards! Meanwhile I somehow conjured up this super human
force unbeknownst to me to yank up the 6 gallon gas container from the
hull, lift high it high into the air, and direct the downspout
perfectly into the gas tank, and pour with ease and control despite
the immense swaying of the boat under the force of winds and waves. My
focus couldn't have been broken by anything in the world. There was no
time to panic, not a moment to even think. I was a unwavering orb of
pure concentration.
During this time, Jack realized he had let the bridle line dangle over
the side of the boat during the night and came back to the cockpit as
I was pouring worried that the engine was not, in fact, out of gas but
that the line was caught in the propeller! I was convinced that the
sound of the engine dying meant it was losing gas (this has happened
so ridiculously often during this trip at the most inopportune times!)
Thank goodness I had guessed correctly! I stayed bow into the wind and
waves (using all my senses but sight) while J pulled the anchor and
bridle line in! He then lowered the solar panels (otherwise the panels
would flip over with hard force onto the deck!) All of this happened
so fast it felt like a dream! Jack encouraged me to start driving
toward the lights on the other side of the bay but I INSISTED staying
bow into the waves while he was on the deck! If, God forbid, he had
fallen in it would have been quite impossible to find him in the dark
or hear him over the sound of the wind! (He graciously thanked me
later for taking this precaution).
When Jack returned to the rear of the boat he grabbed the chart and
GPS. I was so glad that he did, otherwise I would have driven us
straight into a group of small islands on the other side of the bay!
Using the chart and the GPS J made a waypoint for a small hook on the
west side of the bay (perfect protection for these NW/N winds). The
destination was three miles away. Let me rephrase: three miles of
hell! Haha! Talk about the longest three miles of MY LIFE! I mean, the
situation could have been much worse, but the situation was insanely
stressful, all of these catastrophes happening consecutively, SO FAST.
The experience was overwhelming, but knowing that refuge was coming
soon felt good. I didn't drive too fast or else the boat would have
slammed hard into the steep waves causing much spray off the sides and
over the bow possibly into the boat. We kept onward (Onward Hayward
that is…)
The entire set of circumstances occurred from 4:30 to 6:30 AM! When we
made it to the other side of the bay, the sun had started to rise. We
settled in six feet of water using the depth sounder. It was EXTREMELY
calm on that side of the bay! I could hear the wind howling around the
island but could barely feel it! I hugged Jack like a mad woman! I
felt so great that we had worked so well as a team! I felt so lucky
that he always knows what to do and is quick to act! His resolve
always makes my job easier, helps me to focus more intently on my
particular task at hand. We deservingly slept until 4PM the next day!

TUESDAY, APRIL 15TH
So we slept in. I fried plantains, smeared them in butter and poured
melted chocolate over them. We sprinkled them with Grape Nuts and
devoured the delectable treat for our afternoon breakfast! The wind
was still blowing steady and hard outside, though our new anchorage
was calm and peaceful. We experienced the occasional rain shower. It
was the chilliest day I've ever experienced in the Bahamas! The chill
reminded me of a Michigan winter! Thus, we proceeded to have a movie
marathon! Jack cleverly sliced the wires of the PC adapter so that he
could run them directly to the battery, thus making for low power
usage. Yay! The most activity I did that day was step out to the deck
and stretch in the chill air. Thankfully the cabin of the boat was, as
always, super warm from our body heat! Yay for lazy cold front days!

WEDNESDAY, ApRil 16th
Today the front was still passing through but had died down
significantly enough for us to consider moving to the other side of
the harbor and spend some more time on Harbor Island. We found a
shipwreck on the chart and planned on snorkeling/SCUBA diving it!
Unfortunately the wreck was not where the chart had said it would be.
(The chart is from 2005 and the wreck had probably been cleared. It
was charted as laying on a submarine cable and we could see the spot
on the bottom where it had once sat). Soooo that was a bust, but we
didn't let it destroy our adventurous mood. We took the boat back to
our old anchorage near Harbor Island, but made sure to drop anchor a
clever distance away from the fishing boat we had knocked into the
other night.
We rowed in, the wind at our backs. We decided we'd deal with how to
make it back to the boat against the strong winds later….We walked
around, taking pictures. We sought out Cash's Liquor Store to take its
picture. We looked for the dead chicken in the road, but it had been
cleared away just like the shipwreck. The blood stains were still in
the road, however. Yum.
We went back to pinkish sandy beach on the ocean side. Yay Ocean!
Jack snagged a couple of resort beach chairs under a thatch hut! I
swam! There was one really forceful crashing wave at the shore that no
one else who was swimming could make it past! People were enjoying
themselves on boogie boards, letting the big wave push them 50 feet or
so back to shore. I tried to push past the big wave, but no success
whatsoever! Twice the force of the wave took my bathing suit top off,
once it actually pushed me under for the longest underwater ride of my
life, and once it actually tripped me up and dragged my ass along the
bottom, peeling my bathing suit bottoms off! I gave up eventually and
joined Jack, who was reading in his beach chair. I let the sun dry me
off as I relaxed and read Howard Zinn's "A People's History of the
United States." Good book. We read together for a good while then left
to look for food.
On our way to find a restaurant, we realized we had left our dinghy on
the beach during low tide – now it was high tide, meaning the water
had most likely swept it away! Somehow we didn't rush to get back to
find it though, assuming that a kind soul would have seen it and saved
it for us. We are so spoiled by everyone's kindness! Luckily enough,
when we got back to where we had left it, we found that someone had
lifted it off the beach onto the seawall to protect it from the tide.
Yay!
We happily ate dinner at Angela's Starfish Restaurant where we enjoyed
a Conch Salad, Fish Burgers, and a few Kalicks. Let the good times
roll! Upon coming back to the dinghy, we discovered the items we had
left in it – a $20 five gallon water jug and the foot pump that we
need to fill it with air twice a day – was gone! I couldn't believe
someone had lifted it! I guess it was a trade-off for having our
dinghy saved from the tide, but we were super disappointed because it
is extremely hard to row without any air in its two sides!
Surprise update: the next day we found out that a local had taken the
items out of our dinghy for fear that someone else would steal them.
Not bad that our only "theft" experience in the Bahamas is someone
taking our things in order to keep them safe. Although we spent two
days trying to locate this guy, we never ended up finding him and so
had to leave before getting these items back. Kind of an
inconvenience, but at least the guy meant well and at least we lost
these items at the end of our trip rather than the beginning.




Ruth's Blog: INTRACOASTAL DELIGHTS

WEDNESDAY, April 30th
6PM
Today, when Jack and I were planning the rest of our journey across
Florida, this question was posed: What day is it? "Tuesday?" I
guessed, while at the same time Jack said, "Saturday?" Haha! It's a
pretty wonderful thing to be living your life based on your own clock,
your own personal perception of time. We've been living without an
alarm clock for months and I automatically open my eyes about an hour
after sunrise. My ability to guess the time of day based on how high
the sun is in the sky is very much spot on.
We are currently cruising down the St. Lucie canal, towards
Indiantown. Our final destination for tonight will be Port Mayaca
where we will anchor till morning when the Lockmaster arrives to
operate the Port Mayaca Lock, which will bring us into Lake
Okeechobee. This morning I awoke around 7:30. Agreeing last night
that I would get us going in the morning, I started the motor, pulled
anchor and continued down part of the Intracoastal Waterway while Jack
slept in. When I came upon a drawbridge I radioed the bridge operator
on channel 9 (standard for all bridges) and he stopped traffic and
raised the bridge for me, waving and honking his horn loudly as I
rolled through. The air was fresh, the scenery beautiful. Everyone who
passed me this morning waved and smiled. I dropped a fishing line in
the water and let it drag behind me. Then I adjusted the solar panels
for maximum sun efficiency. I drank a red bull. I was feeling alive!
Jack awoke and after we shared a couple plums and granola bars, he
started working on re-connecting some wires in the battery compartment
that had gotten knocked out of place due to some turbulent waves
during our Gulf Stream Crossing. I drove us to the fork at St. Lucie
Inlet, passing different sounds and islands along the way. I saw a
number of different birds: ducks, hawks, falcons, egrets, white and
blue cranes, and – my favorite – pelicans! The pelicans would often
fly two at a time in perfect synchronicity! I'd like to look up the
reason why they do. At the fork I turned south to take the St. Lucie
River.
We drove through a couple large bays where there were many houses and
other developments, boat workshops, anchorages, and marinas amidst the
natural scenery. There was minor boat traffic, many markers, and a
number of tall bridges that were all passable, except two: a railroad
bridge immediately followed by a drawbridge. We had to wait about five
minutes for a train to pass before these bridges could open. The wind
was on the stronger side, coming from the north, and it took some
focus to keep the boat steady and out of the way of the four other
power boats that were waiting also. While I was keeping the boat
steady, Jack spotted about six dolphins right at the passageway
entrance in front of the bridge! They were doing their "dolphin swim"
(porpoise-ing?) and they swam right beside our boat! Jack took a video
of it! One dolphin actually blew air through its blowhole, spouting
out water! I can still hear, in my head, the sound that it made!
We turned down a channel that no other boat was taking. This was the
St. Lucie Canal. Here it was much narrower, quiet, lush, and swampy!
We were essentially cruising down the backwaters and "bywaters" of
Florida (and still are as I type this). The scenery is gorgeous! As
Jack put it, it reminded us of the type of canal where Huck Finn would
ride his raft. The canal is lined with moss-hung wilderness:
astonishingly beautiful pines, palms, and mangroves. Here I saw many
birds close up! I could see every detail of the falcons (or hawks) and
one even flew right around the boat! I kept my eye out for manatees
and alligators, which I read lived in all the canals we're taking
along this trip. I didn't see any, but I saw many jumping fish! Many,
many, many non-stop jumping fish! One fish would literally jump six or
seven times in a row! They were blue with white bellies, slick and
beautiful!
When we arrived at the St. Lucie Lock it was around noon but they
didn't operate until 3pm, so we anchored and enjoyed this WONDERFUL
CHILI Jack made along the way! He poured it over rice and topped it
with Cool Ranch Doritos. Hell yeah! I saw a raccoon creeping among the
mangroves, pawing at the water for food. The fish never stopped
jumping, so we threw out three lines and baited the hooks with conch
parts that Jack received from a man he met at the Bluewater Marina in
Bimini who had been cleaning his conch out at the fish-cleaning table.
We had been keeping it in the fridge so it was still very much fresh.
Only about ten minutes had passed when I heard the reel from Jack's
fishing pole, which he had set down, start to turn! I ran over to it
on the deck and started reeling it in! There was definitely something
on the other end! Jack came up and I let him take over since he had
baited the line. The fishing line had wrapped around the anchor line,
so when the fish was at the surface I un-looped it so that Jack could
bring the beast in. It was a Cat Fish! Jack guessed it was about 18
inches long! The only image in my head that I have of a Cat Fish is
this cartoon drawing that was on a deck of "Go Fish" playing cards we
used to play when I was younger. I can still picture it today – and
the illustration was amazingly accurate!
SOOOOOO we are having Cat Fish for dinner! Wheeeee!!!!!
We spent the next few hours doing this and that. We didn't catch any
more fish. Jack put up a hammock over our table using the old netting
from Gavin and Michelle's catamaran (we met them our first time in
Nassau). I read a bit from this guide book we bought in West Palm
Beach of the waterways of Florida and the Gulf Coast.
Three of the clock rolled around and we entered the lock with another
sailboat and a trawler. We were the last boat in. We parked against
the wall on our port side and the Lockmaster threw us a line at our
bow and at our stern. Jack held the stern line and I the bow while the
great big doors closed behind us "trapping us like rats" as Jack said.
"That's what YOU think…" he then replied to himself… Haha!
Our engine actually died on our way toward the lock, which is why we
were last in line, even though we had arrived at the lock first. There
was only room for about three boats in there. Our engine died because
the choke had been pulled out and the gas line twisted while we were
attempting to retrieve our bag of conch bait that had blown into the
water earlier. With Jack at the bow letting out line and me on the
engine maneuvering us toward the bag by switching between reverse and
forward, putting it hard to one side or the other, he finally managed
to snag it using his fishing pole.
The captain of the other sailboat, who was first in line, was having
trouble keeping his boat from knocking into the walls of the lock.
This guy had been surly to the Lockmaster over the radio earlier and
then had rushed ahead of us while we were trying to get into the lock
with our dead engine (our trouble was quite obvious), which we thought
was rude. This is mean, but we secretly felt that he was getting his.
It must be so difficult running a sailboat by yourself though! I can't
imagine a crew of less than two. Anyway, the lock then filled with
about ten feet or so of water. It took roughly ten minutes until we
were released to the other side. It was fun! A new experience!
As of now we are continuing our path down the St. Lucie Canal and
will end up anchoring at Port Mayaca tonight. Jack is now driving and
playing his clarinet. I am going to return outside to enjoy the beauty
of the southern Florida swamps! Yay!



Tuesday. It’s tomorrow now. I don’t know the date, 2008. By Jack
We crossed the Gulf Stream last night, as you by now already know. (I know how you people talk…! Just kidding. I’m sure Mary Lee let everyone know what was up.) The weather was awesome, we had our fire extinguisher clutched tightly to our bosoms, and we made steady progress. Oh, and by the way- as far as those guys hassling us about the fire extinguisher. Some people would say they were “just doing their jobs,” and we shouldn’t have a negative reaction to unreasonable treatment. Well, I’m going to say real briefly (for once, right?) that if they get enough feedback about the unreasonable crap they’re asked to do, they might start to question it themselves. That goes for the army, the police, anyone carrying out things that don’t make sense, when they don’t. That’s feedback, that’s what makes people change. Keep acting like this behavior is “normal,” and keep getting it forever. My vote against this is to write a letter, and to tell them at the time that this makes no sense. One guy sat there shaking his head while the other initiated all this crap. I know we were heard.
Anyway, we decided to take advantage of the stream, since we had a long road to hoe (is that right? I never did totally get that expression. Is it hard row to hoe? Let me know…) and shoot the extra hundred miles north that we had to do anyway while out in the 2 ½ mph current. Instead of doing the trip as totally west, then totally north allowed us to shave a huge amount off of the time spent. We sallied forth without incident, until mostly across, about fifteen miles from shore, the wind picked up suddenly and noticeably. We reefed our sails, and after a bit of time, decided to head in.
Good thing we did. The waves grew and grew, until they were about 6 feet and not just swells, widely spaced (see blog a few entries back on the importance of this), they were close, steep, and started rolling. If you do look at that entry, you see what a steep rolling wave of three feet does to our little boat- it almost put us over. So, we steered between the waves, hitting them at opportune angles. It was a bit difficult to navigate, since the closest inlet out of the stream was directly west, and the wind was directly south. That meant the waves were coming from the South, and we were taking them on the beam, in many cases. So, it was a constant zig zag and back and forth, and hoping we didn’t zig when we should have zagged. We got in alright. We tied to a mooring ball, the first we saw among some moored boats, and hunkered down. Ruth made the leftover barracuda, and we chilled out. And we didn’t even get ciguatera poisoning, which, some people say you’ll get from barracuda, but we tend to think it’s many fish, and rarer than some would say. Long story.
Anyway, cool pix of the barracuda. I woke at 7 or so. We were now inside the inlet at Lake Worth, 20 miles short of the waterway St. Lucie, which leads to Okeechobee, which takes you across Florida. We needed to get to St. Lucie yesterday, but due to the sudden wind from the South, we fell short of our mark. I thought we could take the Intercoastal Waterway up, but we lacked charts, and looking at it on the GPS, it just looked like someone spilled all of their red and green marbles all over, but couldn’t tell what was what. There was a marina near our mooring, but it was too early to expect them open. Yeah, I could lay around in bed and read Moby Dick again, or play “Like a Virgin” on the clarinet again. But we were late. I headed north.
After grounding the boat twice going north through a maze of red and green buoys, spaced randomly, like some kind of nautical proof of chaos theory, I said screw it, and headed back out to the Stream. Once out, I checked NOAA weather on our trusty New Orleans Red Cross Weather Radio (TM), and they said nothing out of the north for 24 hours. I headed further north. Ruth and I dragged fishing lines, in some vain hope that the fish god would take pity on us, or that the damned fish would appreciate all the hard work we’ve gone to, to make attractive lures out of skirts, hulas, feathers, spoons, and all kinds of thingamabobs for their delicious destruction.
Nope. No fish. We continued north. The next inlet was Jupiter. We got to it, and as we passed it, on the way to St. Lucie, I said to Ruth “Honey, maybe we should just turn in here, since the wind is already coming from the North, and it could get rough.” Well, we gave up on the fish, pulled in the lines, and turned in. As we headed to shore, I said “Hey honey? Do you think you could get a picture of these big swells? They must be four feet high, but they’re so spread out, you can hardly see them pass.” Ruth tried to get a pic, and as she did it, we saw some waves hit the area of the inlet. They absolutely exploded. You could see the white water several feet high, churning and rolling from a quarter mile away, or maybe a half, from BEHIND the waves. They were hitting that shore like a ton of bricks. We looked for a second longer, and said “screw this too. There’s no way we’d survive that ride in. With it at our bow, but especially not with it at our stern. Hell naw.”
We headed south again. Now the 7 am start I jumped on had turned to 12pm or something, back where we started. We pulled in. A cop passed, then pulled us over. We succumbed. He tied up to us, grilled us, then towed us in so he could search the boat. We welcomed him, and said fine, whatever. He got on board, and then spent the next 30 minutes asking how we did it, how the Bahamas was, etc. after he told us that the formal interview was over. A bit of a shakedown artist, not above the occasional grift. Not a bad guy if looks, brains, and personality don’t count, and he better hope they don’t.** He gave us the shaggy dog story (do you have drugs? I’m bringing a drug sniffing dog on your boat, and he’ll know, and you better tell me now… etc. which he later confided was b.s.) He told us again how we should clear customs. Oh, and while he was asking our life story, we replayed the Coast Guard incident. He was the first to say that that was bullshit. He was incredulous. Whatever. Screw the Coast Guard. Oh yeah, and screw customs. If I never see another cop in my lifetime, it’ll be too soon. Whatever.
We hit a marina. The same one we had left 7 hour earlier. Then another, where they attempted to chase us off. We gave them the sad eyes, and the let us leave to buy a chart of the ICW. We returned, bags of groceries, chart, flare gun, and some Captain Morgan’s. Off again, we were. Off, that is, after bribing the security guy 10 bucks to use his phone for 10 minutes. He was from Haiti. Nice guy. Named Lewis.
We headed north. We hit drawbridge after drawbridge. The first one though, they said was opening 15 minutes from when we pulled up. To our side, a Texaco. “You sell beer?” we hollered. Sure enough. 15 minutes later, we had docked, bought beer, ran credit cards, had credit card problems, they called Houston Control, we ran out, undocked, cleared the bridge.
Now the wind’s blowing 20+ from the North. I’ll tell you what: I’m glad we’re taking this part of the trip inside the ICW, rather than out there in the Gulf Stream. They’re supposed to be steep 7 foot waves now. No thanks.
Now we’re back on the road. Hoofing it. We have 95 miles a day to do, on average, at 6-7 mph, not counting drawbridges, cops, breakdowns, dried up waterways*, fatigue, or hangovers. Kind of like the Blues Brothers. It’s midnight, we have a pack of cigarettes, a half a tank of gas, it’s dark, and we’re wearing sunglasses. Or something like that. So it goes.
Speaking of that, Kurt Vonnegut’s been dead a year now. I could still cry for that. Heard a great retrospective of him on the radio yesterday, and read his last book last year. It was awesome. Very “contemporary,” if you get my drift. Good man. Nix that. GREAT man.

*We heard, upon arrival here, after all of this journeying, and heading this far north up Florida’s coast via the Gulf Stream, that the Okeechobee route is closed. False alarm, only one of the two Okeechobee routes is closed. Wouldn’t that be a bitch though, after all that? (Same guy told us it took him 4 12 hour days to go across this same 110 miles… Uh-oh…)

**Miller’s Crossing, circa 1989, or something. Great movie, I quote a lot. Oh, and on that topic- Ruth and I saw the WORST movie ever, called BRICK. We have it, it’s a blatant ripoff, and it’s just bizarre how bad it was. It was worse than Suburbia. If you like to watch movies you hate, like I used to love to watch Thirtysomething and grind my teeth, you’d love this. In any event, even if you don’t, Miller’s Crossing is still brilliant, and the wellspring for all kinds of witty banter. Just now, as Ruth and I hit a drawbridge, we called a drawbridge on VHF and asked the surly attendant what time the drawbridge opens, or what the next opening would be. He replied that it opened on request. Seeing as how we were sitting outside it, and he should have been able to see us, I asked if what we had said so far counted as a request, or should I engrave something formal. He actually warmed up after that bit of sarcasm. And I owe it all to the Cohen brothers, and Miller’s Crossing. True story ™.


THE NEXT DAY OR SOMETHING, SOMEWHERE IN FLORIDA, 2008 by Jack
Okay. First, the ICW takes FOREVER. We’ve gone a few miles, putted along, stopped for a drawbridge, putted a few more, stopped again, repeat, repeat until fade, as they say in the music business. Now we’re waiting for the lock at Lake Okeechobee. I think we’ve traveled about 15 miles today. It’s 2pm, We’ve been driving, or rather Ruth’s been driving since 7 or something. The lock opens at 3, and in the meantime we’ve been fishing, and caught one catfish. Maybe 18 inches or something. Blah. I guess I’m just impatient to get there, and it’s making me tense and crabby. We have a long way to go, and we’re never going to get there at the speed we’re going now: stopped. We’re listening to Bob Dylan’s radio show. It’s pretty sweet, digging up all these old tunes united by a common theme, but it’s a drag to hear that the theme of this week’s show is Cadillacs- so all the songs are about Cadillacs, which is fine in itself, but when you realize the show was sponsored by Cadillac, you realize that even old Bob Zim has sold out, and that’s pretty pathetic. He has more money than God, and why a cultural icon for freedom of expression and being, real, heartfelt and genuine, would end up in his retirement shilling for a car company is beyond me. That’s like Geronimo or John Lennon, or D. Boon selling toothpaste or cigarettes. Whatever, man. What we need is another band like the Carpenters. Now that was a band. That guitar solo in “Goodbye to Love,” or “Angel of Death,” now that was music. Man, I must be a drag to read. I’m so cynical, I think everyone is selling something.

Oh yeah, I forgot. They are. Whatever.

FRIDAY, MAY 2, 2008 COOSALATCHEE RIVER, Florida by Jackie Scratchie
Well, here we are, wherever that is. We’re creeping along the swamp country, and enjoying the view, anxious to be home to y’all. Phyllis said that her and Burt are going to have a party for us when we get home, and that sounds pretty damned exciting, I think. I can’t imagine how much fun that will be to see all of you guys, all of these faces we missed so much, and to tell you all in person: “Quit it!”

Maybe you all got the message from my mom about that already. I told Ruth to tell her to tell David and Michele to keep it up, and for everyone else to quit it, whatever it is that you’re doing. I’m sure you’re up to no good.

So won’t that be exciting to see everyone in one place? Mary Lee’s big smile, Michele’s big belly, and my brother’s big downplay that he’s going to be a Pappy. How exciting. I want to have a beer with Mr. Murawski, a scotch with my Pop, hugs to Reta and Mrs. M., lose a game of Pig to Dave, and tell Laura to live it up. We just went through a swing bridge, and took a video of it, while Ruth drove and I photographed her telling everyone that she loved them. Here’s the link:


(I’m going to post this later, due to time constraints)




Anyway, where was I? Me? Digress? Never. So anyway, as my mother would say, it’s always good to get away, but it’s always good to get home. And as my dad would say “Look at that bridge!”

The latest plan (What me? Revise? What? Me? Worry? Oh, by the way. Did anyone else ever notice that the punctuation in that Mad Magazine quote made their famous line totally not make sense? As a kid, I could never quite get the joke because I thought maybe there was something that I was missing, the way they wrote it: “what me worry?” Turns out like a lot of things we don’t understand, they’re just dumb.) Anyway, the latest plan is this: we’re going to get as far as we can in the time we have. We have to be home to New Orleans (I keep forgetting that won’t be home anymore)- BACK to New Orleans by May 10 so Lindsey can get out of there, and there will be someone to take care of our pore ol’ houndsTM. So anyway, we’re racing back to cover these last 1000 plus miles to get there, We’ve gone several hundred, and it’s taken us a few weeks, and we have about a week left to cover the last 700+. If the weather is right, if the boat runs right, if we drive 14 hours a day, and the stars line up right, and everything goes well, we will just get there after our pore ol’ houndsTM have starved to death. So, we’re rethinking that plan. The latest plan is this: we’re going to go as far as we can, not kill ourselves, not depend on the weather being perfect, not plan on the stars (they always let us down) and get as far as we can as fast as we can. If we make it, we make it. If not, we stop, leave the boat, take a bus to NOLA, relieve Lindsey, fix the truck, fix or sell the Honda, pour the driveway, clean up the house and get it listed to sell, sell some tools, pack the rest in a trailer, take the dogs to the park, eat a sandwich, leave, pick up the boat, take the tools from the trailer and put them in the boat, and drive up to have a big old party. So we figure, that might set us back at least two or three days. You never know, really. Those New Orleans sandwiches are huge.

So we hate to be vague, and we’re super excited to see you all, but we have to do these things, and we’re getting closer and closer to the finish line all the time. We’ll be in touch when we can put a firm date on things. In the meantime, we creep up the coast.

Man, can you believe that Barack Obama’s chances of being nominated are being shortcircuited by the fact that he went to church where Jeremiah Wright said things that are offensive to people, when taken out of context? Isn’t this amazing, that our political machine works this way, that this guy can be raked over the coals for this long, over nothing he ever did? Incredible. Hillary Clinton was married to Bill Clinton, and takes credit for all of his successes, and none of his failures, has no residual baggage, somehow from Whitewater, the bombing medical facilities in Sudan (which, according to Noam Chomsky is the biggest terrorist act committed on earth since World War II), the suspicious suicide of ally Vince Foster, etc. etc. These things are MASSIVE compared to what he’s being picked over for… I honestly believe the reason he’s being picked apart so hard is that the people who run our media think like Rush Limbaugh, who has been so vocal in suggesting that Republicans register as Democrats and throw of the nomination (a slimy, and typical move of this human swine and those that would follow him). He believes that Clinton is beatable, because the Clinton administration left people so polarized, whereas Barack Obama is actually someone who can win, and can actually change things. Let’s be honest: if she wins the primary, the Republicans will win the election. If he wins, people will come out of the woodwork in droves, and the non-voting apathetic Democrats will actually feel like there’s a possibility of change and start voting. The people that want things to stay the same, who want people to stay divided, the people that make so much money from this war, and who hoodwinked so many into believing in it, and who control our media (and yes, they are the same people- look it up) know that Obama can win, and they can’t have that. They can’t have change. Even four years of rolling back the draconian laws and tentacular holds that have occurred since the “progress” of the Republicans.

And yes, I did make up that word. It is apropos, non?

By the way, this is the last time you will read me offer political ideas in this diary. Even though I think all of our lives are political, that daily life is political, that even this blog of our adventures is affected by politics and that contrary to what some would say, I think it has a place here, even. I’m going to start a new blog though, not so that I can keep politics off of here, but rather so that I can give this madness the scrutiny it deserves. If the new blog address follows, then you know I started it. I’ll kick it off with that post, solicit your ideas as emails to me, which I will post on the blog, so we can talk about it together. (I’m going to have to wait on that link too, due to time constraints. Also, we both have a ton of photos to put up yet. Those will be forthcoming).




One more thing before I go: Heard an interesting tidbit of info this morning as we left the River’s Edge dockage. They had a pool, and I had hoped to take a dip in it before we left. We were in a hurry though, because we slept in and had to make the last lock of the trip before 4pm. So I figured since I couldn’t go in the pool, I would just take a dip in the river while under way- you know, just jump off the bow while moving, and as the boat passes by, grab the ladder in the back and climb back in. So I was out the door of the office after paying, and I said “By the way, is that river cool to swim in?”

“Oh, NO. No WAY. There’s 9 foot alligators in there. I’ve had ‘em come up on the grass here.”
“Really? I knew they were there, but I didn’t think they would really bother you.”
“Oh yeah they will. On the bank, if you walk toward them, they’ll just crawl off into the water. But in the water, they rule, and they know it. And the worst part is how they kill you.”
“How’s that? By dragging you under and drowning you, right?”
“They’ll grab an arm or a leg and just start rolling over, and they’ll roll over and over and over spinning and holding you under until you’re drowned. And while you’re rolling, you won’t know which way is up even if you could get free, which you wouldn’t.”

Glad I asked. I almost jumped in yesterday too, which I’ve been dying to do- to finally swim now that we’re in some fresh water. The leftover bag of conch we were using for bait fell in and I told Ruth I didn’t think it would be any problem if she swam for it. I was about to jump in my bathing suit and go for it too, but we managed to grab it off of the side of the boat. We also parked close enough last night to swim in to the town while waiting for the drawbridge to open. It opened right away, so we didn’t. Glad I asked though.

Ruth probably wrote about how when we dove this one wreck, how I was SCUBA diving and Ruth was snorkeling on the surface, and the barracuda were creeping up behind my head without me noticing, and she was bugging out and yelling on the surface till I finally heard her, somehow. And I turned and they split. And here we worried about them, but then some people say they’re harmless, and of course some say they’re not. And then we think we’re safe, and there really is something dangerous in the water. Just goes to show, you can’t ever assume you know what’s up.


THURSDAY, MAY 8, 2008 Still in Florida, by Jack.
We just left Appalachicola (real name) this morning. Trying desperately to get home on time. We have till the 10th. We were doing okay, but got behind schedule with yesterday essentially amounting to a day off in ol’ Appalachicola, which is a little “drinking town with a fishing problem” according to my T-shirt. Ruth and I blew the bank, drinking beer and buying souveniers and stuff. We had a good time though. Wonderful, nice people there. If you ever get there, go to the marina under the bridge and buy the guy who works there a beer for me. His name is Jeff. Nice guy.

Ruth just saw a hawk fly by with a mouse in its talons. Pretty cool. Oh, anyway, we were doing pretty good schedule-wise, but we cut about 40 miles out of our trip by cutting across the Big Bend, heading about thirty miles from shore to make a straight line out of a semicircle. Once out there, it got dark, and no moon, and the 2 foot waves predicted grew to five. Luckily, the Gulf of Mexico is very shallow very far out, so we anchored out there in the middle of nowhere overnight, and in the a.m., it was about as close to glass as big water gets. We then went into Appalachicola, and when we went to leave this a.m, we heard the forecast for 5-6 foot waves and 20 knot winds, so we’re taking the inland waterway. I think it’s 350 miles or something this way, instead of 280, but it’s very flat. Unfortunately, you can’t sail because it’s narrow. So, it’s slower, smoother, prettier, and costs more in gas. But what’re ya gonna do.

I can’t wait to start my political blog/site. I trust you will all sign on and give me a hard time. I would expect nothing less.

No news is good news, from me. We’re chugging along, enjoying the Spanish moss and cypress knees. Take care everyone.

Big love from above,

Mr. Jack

SUNDAY, May 11, 2008 4:15 in the p.m., by Crabby Jack
Howdy y’all. Happy mother’s day, and whatnot. Ruth and me, we got Phyllis a toilet wrangled out of a shipwreck. What’d you do fer your pore ol’ muther?

We’re on a Grayhound bus back to the Big Windy Easy That Never Sleeps, racing to our beloved hounds. We plan to surprise them, and videotape it. I think they might be almost as glad to see us as we will be to see them. I’m never, ever, ever, ever, nerver, leaving them for so long again. My poor little heart would never be able to take it.

I just wanted to post this last blog entry from the trip, and to the people who tuned in time after time to follow our progress, follow our silly misguided adventures, I want to thank both of you with all of my heart.

We miss you all, and I think I might keep posting stuff on this blog, but maybe it will just be about our exciting lives, so you can all peer in and get the dirt on us in case we run for office or something, you’ll have something to blackmail us with, like the one day last fall when Ruth didn’t wear her American flag pin. Of course, everyone already knows about that, because as a good komrade, I immediately turned her into the Thought Police, but that’s just one example. Now you know that we swear like sailors (hell, we ARE sailors, after all), dipped our toes occasionally into tepid bongwater, and the aforementioned affront to Big Brother that Ruth committed.

Please stay in touch, and we’re going to be home in but a few weeks, I hope. We’ll buy a cellphone when we get a minute, and please write me anything rantworthy that should go on the political blog. Maybe we can kick it off with the topic of how you feel about Rush Limbaugh trying to short circuit the dcmocracy our founding fathers instituted, that our country is based on, that so many have died in the name of, and that he claims to believe in. Was his “Operation Chaos” something that is defensible, or is it just an even lower stooping, one more squeal from this bloated, hysterical, hypocritical, porcine moron? I’m waiting until I hear from you to form my opinion. For real, write to me so we can discuss this stuff, and I promise to give equal time to all ideas, no matter how ridiculous, before they are systematically dismantled.

Big hugs from a big lug,

-Jack

And big hugs from a little lug too!
-Ruth

Sunday, April 27, 2008

criss crossing tomorrow...

APRIL 27, 2008 NOT ACROSS THE GULFSTREAM by Jack
Okay, first, we traveled hundreds of miles to be here, at Bimini so that we could leave at the opportune weather moment. We only go 6 or 7 mph do that, so it's a lot. Once here, we waited, and watched for the weather to be exactly right. We skipped Saturday because Sunday would be slightly better. 8 or so boats were doing likewise. We all left together. We got halfway across the Gulf Stream, with the wind at our backs, the wave at our backs, the current at our backs.
We heard the Coast Guard pulling over boats. Figures. I guess they don't even patrol when it's stormy, cold, windy, or rough. But when the seas are nice, they're out there keeping you “safe.” We hear people getting boarded on VHF.
Sure enough, then they come after us. We wait and wait, as they stalk us. They drove next to us for half an hour or something, before I got on the radio and asked if we they neede our sails down or anything (like, in case they wanted to board us). They said no.
They grill us for info, and then finally, say they're boarding. Another half an hour goes by while we putt along. They come up to get on, and ram their boat into ours (with the soft nose, of course), swinging us off course, now instead of oriented right to the waves, we're pointed at a funny angle, surfing down waves, trying to avoid a wild broach which would steer us further into them as they plow ahead with mega horsepower. The wind is no longer filling the sail, the sail hestitates, then catches the wind and swings wildly to the other side, almost clocking one of their guys on the head. I tell him hold on, get the boat under control, and we resume our conversation, with them in our tiny boat, with their pistols, tasers, etc.
They say they need to check the holds for water. “WHAT?” If we were sinking, we would know it. It was clearly a thinly veiled chance to search our boat, which they did. Then they had to look for flares. Ours are expired. Apparently, this is worth a ticket, even by their own admission later, you don't need to carry them in the daytime. We still got a ticket, though. Our fire extinguisher is low on juice. We told them we tried to buy one in Nassau, Eleuthera, and Bimini (true), but they were not available where we looked (marine and hardware stores). After calling in to Miami, they told us that the boat can't sail further without one, and they would not share. They also said they recommended that Miami let us just sail on, and get one once we landed, but Miami said “negative.”
They wrote us our tickets, told us to turn our boat around and sail to Bimini. Ruth and I pointed out that we were halfway across the Gulf Stream. They said that it was just too dangerous for us to continue on without a fire extinguisher on board that had a new date on it. We pointed out that 99% of the casualties, if not more, on this dangerous body of water appear to be weather, not fire related, and that sailing halfway across, back to Bimini, where you probably can't even find a fire extinguisher, let alone buy one, and then crossing again (like crossing twice, the second time in much more inclement weather) was more dangerous than just getting there and buying a fire extinguisher where we know they are available.
They didn't seem to agree, or rather “Miami” didn't, according to them, despite their “recommendations to the contrary.” We asked that they call Miami to reconsider, and they refused. They left, circled us (“escorted”) for a long time, vulturelike (“for our safety”), and then demanded that we hail them on the radio when we are moored in Bimini.
Chuckleheaded bastards. That's our government at work again. Tax dollars well spent. I asked the second chucklehead if they would be monitoring our progress across, and would they note if someone like us happened to stop in the Stream and drift endlessly. They said not to worry “you'd hit land eventually.” Wow, thanks! I feel secure.
Great to know that these idiots are safely monitoring the one vessel in the Gulf Stream that we KNOW is NOT sinking for hours at a time, and then following it further into the Stream, and then turning around and forcing us to go AWAY from our own country, away from the place where the fire extinguishers are sold, INTO the waves, wind and current, to go on a wild goose chase to find fire extinguishers that they recommend we “have shipped to us” in Bimini, only to be forced to wait for another window of weather that MIGHT be as safe as the one we were almost done sailing through. RIGHT ON.
Long story slightly longer: we spent four hours or more going back to Bimini, where we had a hell of a time docking in wind that was exactly terrible to dock in, but thanks to new friends we landed safely and tied the boat with out incident other than excitement. Of course, all the stores are closed, since it was Sunday. After that, we decided to try one local guy I had met the other day for a fire extinguisher, and who I remembered had said he was “open 7 days” in the bait shop that's about as big as your front hall. He pulled a fire extinguisher from the shelf in a ripped box, with about a half inch of dust on it. $25 bucks. We felt like it might be our lucky day after all. We checked the weather online (the marina never did change their password, and I happened to figure it out, heh heh heh), and the strong front that was coming Monday morning is now coming Tuesday night. That means we sail tomorrow if all goes well. We leave at 6ish. So, I go to bed now, but now you know why we're not there, and where we are. We hope to be online in a few days to confirm to you, but if we land near a town, we'll find a phone and give Mary Lee a shout, and she can relay to everyone that we made it.
Oh, and don't worry. The Coast Guard is watching the Stream for immigrants, drugs, and justify their own existence, and they gave us their assurance that if something were to happen to us, that if our boat broke down, caught fire, or got hit by a cruise ship, whale, or whatever, that “we'd hit land eventually.”

Take care,
And as Jim Morrison or someone once said, we'll see you on the other side.
Jack (and Tater, Sparkle, Speck, Spud, Stumpy, or Rudy, as you know her)

One more thing...

Oh yeah. I forgot to mention that we don't even NEED fire extinguishers. As our friend John Samford pointed out-

"Why would you need fire extinguishers? Just ask Ruth. If something's
burning, you just throw it in the water."

Take care y'all (and thanks for the laugh, John)

Jack

Photos that go with the entry below



Here's a pic of the boat to point out the size of the wave that's breaking over the bow, up the base of the mast







And here's a pic of the side of the boat so that you can see how far you have to tip it to put the side rail under water... basically just under the windows. What's crazy is that in the video below, the wave that tipped us over that far wasn't even big...

We had a much bigger wave today, it came over the bow and broke and rolled along the deck and pushed under the soft top, where we put a towel across for just such an occasion. I was taking a quick nap below, and was dreaming of a giant fudge sale, where the price was zero cents for all you can carry, when the water poured in, pushing the towel out of the way, and drenched me. What you call a rude awakening... Just like that... a snap of the fingers... all of that fudge... swept away from my conscousness. Sigh.

Leaving tomorrow for the States

APRIL 27, 2008 NOT ACROSS THE GULFSTREAM by Jack
Okay, first, we traveled hundreds of miles to be here, at Bimini so that we could leave at the opportune weather moment. We only go 6 or 7 mph do that, so it's a lot. Once here, we waited, and watched for the weather to be exactly right. We skipped Saturday because Sunday would be slightly better. 8 or so boats were doing likewise. We all left together. We got halfway across the Gulf Stream, with the wind at our backs, the wave at our backs, the current at our backs.
We heard the Coast Guard pulling over boats. Figures. I guess they don't even patrol when it's stormy, cold, windy, or rough. But when the seas are nice, they're out there keeping you “safe.” We hear people getting boarded on VHF.
Sure enough, then they come after us. We wait and wait, as they stalk us. They drove next to us for half an hour or something, before I got on the radio and asked if we they neede our sails down or anything (like, in case they wanted to board us). They said no.
They grill us for info, and then finally, say they're boarding. Another half an hour goes by while we putt along. They come up to get on, and ram their boat into ours (with the soft nose, of course), swinging us off course, now instead of oriented right to the waves, we're pointed at a funny angle, surfing down waves, trying to avoid a wild broach which would steer us further into them as they plow ahead with mega horsepower. The wind is no longer filling the sail, the sail hestitates, then catches the wind and swings wildly to the other side, almost clocking one of their guys on the head. I tell him hold on, get the boat under control, and we resume our conversation, with them in our tiny boat, with their pistols, tasers, etc.
They say they need to check the holds for water. “WHAT?” If we were sinking, we would know it. It was clearly a thinly veiled chance to search our boat, which they did. Then they had to look for flares. Ours are expired. Apparently, this is worth a ticket, even by their own admission later, you don't need to carry them in the daytime. We still got a ticket, though. Our fire extinguisher is low on juice. We told them we tried to buy one in Nassau, Eleuthera, and Bimini (true), but they were not available where we looked (marine and hardware stores). After calling in to Miami, they told us that the boat can't sail further without one, and they would not share. They also said they recommended that Miami let us just sail on, and get one once we landed, but Miami said “negative.”
They wrote us our tickets, told us to turn our boat around and sail to Bimini. Ruth and I pointed out that we were halfway across the Gulf Stream. They said that it was just too dangerous for us to continue on without a fire extinguisher on board that had a new date on it. We pointed out that 99% of the casualties, if not more, on this dangerous body of water appear to be weather, not fire related, and that sailing halfway across, back to Bimini, where you probably can't even find a fire extinguisher, let alone buy one, and then crossing again (like crossing twice, the second time in much more inclement weather) was more dangerous than just getting there and buying a fire extinguisher where we know they are available.
They didn't seem to agree, or rather “Miami” didn't, according to them, despite their “recommendations to the contrary.” We asked that they call Miami to reconsider, and they refused. They left, circled us (“escorted”) for a long time, vulturelike (“for our safety”), and then demanded that we hail them on the radio when we are moored in Bimini.
Chuckleheaded bastards. That's our government at work again. Tax dollars well spent. I asked the second chucklehead if they would be monitoring our progress across, and would they note if someone like us happened to stop in the Stream and drift endlessly. They said not to worry “you'd hit land eventually.” Wow, thanks! I feel secure.
Great to know that these idiots are safely monitoring the one vessel in the Gulf Stream that we KNOW is NOT sinking for hours at a time, and then following it further into the Stream, and then turning around and forcing us to go AWAY from our own country, away from the place where the fire extinguishers are sold, INTO the waves, wind and current, to go on a wild goose chase to find fire extinguishers that they recommend we “have shipped to us” in Bimini, only to be forced to wait for another window of weather that MIGHT be as safe as the one we were almost done sailing through. RIGHT ON.
Long story slightly longer: we spent four hours or more going back to Bimini, where we had a hell of a time docking in wind that was exactly terrible to dock in, but thanks to new friends we landed safely and tied the boat with out incident other than excitement. Of course, all the stores are closed, since it was Sunday. After that, we decided to try one local guy I had met the other day for a fire extinguisher, and who I remembered had said he was “open 7 days” in the bait shop that's about as big as your front hall. He pulled a fire extinguisher from the shelf in a ripped box, with about a half inch of dust on it. $25 bucks. We felt like it might be our lucky day after all. We checked the weather online (the marina never did change their password, and I happened to figure it out, heh heh heh), and the strong front that was coming Monday morning is now coming Tuesday night. That means we sail tomorrow if all goes well. We leave at 6ish. So, I go to bed now, but now you know why we're not there, and where we are. We hope to be online in a few days to confirm to you, but if we land near a town, we'll find a phone and give Mary Lee a shout, and she can relay to everyone that we made it.
Oh, and don't worry. The Coast Guard is watching the Stream for immigrants, drugs, and justify their own existence, and they gave us their assurance that if something were to happen to us, that if our boat broke down, caught fire, or got hit by a cruise ship, whale, or whatever, that “we'd hit land eventually.”

We were going to take advantage of the direction of the stream and land at our destination 110 miles from here, but we think we'll just shoot across and take the Inter Coastal Waterway part of the way. Or maybe we'll sail the florida coast as long as the weather is good. Then we put in at St. Lucie Inlet. Then we go west as I mentioned.

Take care,
And as Jim Morrison or someone once said, we'll see you on the other side.
Jack (and Tater, Sparkle, Speck, Spud, Stumpy, or Rudy, as you know her)

Blog about the Gulf Stream, by Shaft Dynamo April 27, 2008

Friday, April 25, leaving Bimini for the States by Jack


The view from the rainbow beach lot




http://www.youtube.com/v/YNNtsXicT0k

If clicking on the blue text above doesn't work, copy and post it in the destination tab at the top of your browser.

If you see a picture above the link in blue, then the two are duplicates of each other, and you probably need to double click on the picture, or click a button that indicates “play” or somesuch. So, there's that.

There's a video for you guys. Here's another one of us almost rolling the boat on the way into Bimini this time. The waves were about 3-4 feet, from the Northwest, a little joke compared to when we came in the first time, when they were ten or more, steeper than hell, close together, and coming from all directions. When the waves from one direction would cross another, they would stack up, and be twice as tall for just a second. When the boat was on top of that double wave, and one would go one way and one another, the boat would fall just like it was dropped out of the air, luckily usually horizontally, and fall several feet with a huge splash. Once landed, the next wave would be so steep it would be disintegrating under it's own speed, rolling over, and breaking over the bow, sometimes, as I mentioned, breaking as high as the base of the mast. That's a huge wave, and a crazy situation to be in. James was telling us later that he could see our keel when we were coming off the top of one of those huge waves, the whole boat flying through the air. Many times, the waves hit the bow so hard, it would take the 13 pound anchor right out of its bracket, and I would have to crawl up there and grab the chain as it swung on the side of the boat and put it back. I did fasten it eventually so it came out less easily, but the times when we've had this occur were always surprises, so it really is never initially fastened down.

In any event, the seas this time were nothing compared to that when we came in that day. This time they were a few feet, but still very steep, which is what happens when the wind blows opposite of the current, which is so common in the Gulf Stream, which is what makes it so dangerous. There are tons of shipwrecks on either side of it, and I'm sure a ton in the middle too as a result. The other thing about it is that when it gets crazy, it gets crazy suddenly, or it can anyway. All it takes is for that wind to oppose the current, which it does 90% of the time, or more. So when you get a moment of south wind, or west wind, hurry across, because what that means is it's a momentary change due to a cold front passing through, which is, more than a lasting condition, just momentary indicator that it's about to clock around to the North, which is its return to a kind of normalcy. In any event, it's probably the most dangerous part of this trip, and when we did it last time, we did it in very poor conditions, which, it turns out, was really ill advised. The weather report called for 5-10 knots (=6-12 m.p.h.) out of the North, but clocking to the east before building to 15-20. James said he thought this would probably be our last and best opportunity to cross without something stronger going on, which is what it had been since we started waiting to cross, almost two weeks before. James had crossed before, so we just went with his opinion as the expert on hand. We realized having crossed before was not exactly knowing what it would do in any and every condition, but it was better than what we knew, which is only what we'd read. So we decided to go for it. In retrospect, that was not necessarily the case. And not only that, we found that strong winds from the East (which many people say is no problem, as long as it's not North) are not necessarily conducive to flat water either. Well, live and learn.

Last night, this guy Kevin we were talking to just couldn't stop saying how his hat was off to us for crossing in our little boat. He must have said it fifteen times. Anyway, I'm rambling about it, but it's pretty fascinating to me, this crazy beast, and how we were struggling so much at its mercy. Ruth and I were recalling how when we got to Bimini, and got into the really shallow water, maybe less than fifteen feet, where the water runs through the bank into the Gulf Stream, opposing the current, while the wind was going a third direction, and the water was standing on end, like huge steep triangles and pyramids, twice or more as tall as wide sometimes, moving through one another, colliding, and sometimes converging under the boat, behind or in front of it, or suddenly right next to it, lifting the one side of the boat four feet in the air higher than the other side, and then reversing the situation within two seconds, and then the water just disappearing out from under it altogether, dropping us through the air to splash again, while we hung on tightly. Anyway, Ruth and I were remembering entering that shallow water, where the water had all the energy it had in the deeper water, and now, with the bottom so close, nowhere to go but up. And we were in that, in the thick of it, trying like hell to stay bow in to the biggest wave that was appearing at that moment while hopefully making our way to the land that was within a few miles, while we made a snail's pace closer to the land. It's important to be bow to the waves for a simple reason: if the boat takes a wave that's 10 feet high, and 20 feet from crest to crest, and you go to it bow first, the boat has a tendency to straddle a large section of the wave, or sometimes more than one at a time, and since it can be only in one position at once, it sits on the average of all the forces acting on it. So in the other scenario, where the boat gets hit by a wave that's from the side, for a moment you are on whatever angle that part of the wave shape takes as it passes under you.

If, in fact, it does go under you. The problem is that if the wave is too tall, or too steep, the energy from the wind is too much pushing on the top of the wave, and makes the top part push over on itself, which starts it rolling. When it rolls over, part of actually goes upside down of course, just like the pipeline that some guy's surfing in. Well, if that wave is big, that's one thing. It's another thing when they're close together, because the side of the wave might go from a small angle if they're far apart, to a very steep angle, and that's the angle your boat will be in when it's on it. It's a third problem if they're breaking waves, and the problem is compounded again when you take the wave on the beam, which means on the side. When the sea is confused, and the waves are going in all directions, you are taking waves on the side whether you like it or not. So, in this situation, all of the above were occurring, and it was really hectic. The thing that kept running through my mind was how hard the wind was blowing too.

Now that in itself is nothing. The problem is that when the wind blows hard, the waves get bigger, and the bigger they get, the more surface area that each wave shows to the wind, and so the more energy the wind imparts to the wave, making it grow further. So, in essence, the bigger the waves, the bigger they will grow to be, until finally, they collapse and roll. If they collapse and roll, they might be rolling you with them. If you take a breaking wave on the beam, very likely the wave will crash into the boat. At that point, the boat will become way heavier since it's filled with water and not air, and then it will sit that much lower in the water, become impossible to maneuver, probably stall out the engine, and then pretty much just do whatever the water does, including rolling over with the breaking waves, rather than floating on top. So that's the detailed version of why it's important to face the waves, and keep the boat oriented to them.

Running the engine full tilt, and pointing this way and that, powering up and over waves, and as we raced down the back side of the wave with so much engine power added to the speed from gravity, sliding down this steep, steep hill, trying to keep the boat from spinning at a right angle when it hit bottom and has to go to one side or another. We were doing this, white knuckling it, and just at that perfect moment, guess what? We ran out of gas. Or rather, the gas in the tank moving around wasn't enough to constantly be on the bottom of the tank. Great timing. So here we are, now very fearful of being capsized, sliding down these steep waves sideways, with no engine power, while we pour gas in the tank, spilling it all over as we're tossed about like beads in a baby rattle. We pour gas in, holding the hatch open with one hand, pouring with two more (the five gallon can weighs forty pounds or so), and holding the funnel in the tank with another, and holding on while we're rolling around like we're walking across the Tilt-A-Whirl while it's full on. So you can imagine how effective we are at this task. We're trying to put in as much as possible, enough to get us to land and safety, and so we won't have to run out of gas a second time in this mess, but at the same time, realizing there are limited amount of seconds to luxuriate in this endeavor, before another very dangerous wave will appear out of nowhere and hit us on the beam. So we put in gas, but are trying to put in the bare minimum so we won't have this Achilles heel exposed for any longer than absolutely necessary. We're doing this while shouting back and forth in the loud wind, and then, with gas mixed with oil under our feet, sliding around like we're on a greased skillet.

Let me tell you, it was very exciting.

Clearly we made it, we got the gas in, we kept bow to the waves as best we could, which at that point required one hand steering hard and fast with the tiller handle, and the other duplicating the same thing with the engine, pointing it this way and that. Most of the energy that the engine put out was wasted pointing in all of these directions, and going up and down waves. We pulled out of Miami at four in the morning that day, and arrived in Bimini twelve hours later. For fifty five miles, that's about four and a half miles per hour, but for most of the trip we had done about six and a half m.p.h., right up until the last few miles. Once we spotted land, maybe ten miles away, it took maybe five hours to get there, with the engine on full tilt. So instead of 8 m.p.h that we go at full tilt, we were going about two. In retrospect too, I realize it was a MAJOR mistake to come in as we did south of Bimini, instead of straight in from the deep water. The reasons being that first, we came onto the shallow bank way earlier than we had to, where the water had way more energy and motion comparatively than in the deeper water, and secondly, because south of Bimini is between the two islands, which is essentially the only route for the tidal current to run through as it lifts and rises 3 feet every six hours. That means all that rushing water is swirling around as it conflicts with the wind and the Gulf Stream.

So we're a bit wiser now, and this is why we're sitting here waiting for the wind to be in our favor for the return trip to Florida. We pulled into Bimini the other day, and I videotaped a bit of the chop outside the harbor as we pulled in. Right as I turned on the camera though for one last bit of video, I saw a wave coming at our beam. So when you watch the video below, you'll see what happened. You'll see the wave, maybe three feet, not big at all, but very steep, come rolling over right at us, and as it gets to us, I'm holding on like crazy, one handed to the boom with the camera in the other hand while Ruth steered. You don't see how far this wave knocked us over, or anything like that, you just see the camera go all over the place, and we couldn't even yell out as it happened, we were just holding on. The rail of the boat on the starboard side actually dipped below the water, though. What this means is that this little wave put us almost totally sideways for a second, enough for that rail to be submerged. The force of the wave hit the boat so hard, my hat flew off my head, in fact. It had stayed on even in 20 mph winds, which is faster than when the air whistles in the telephone wires. That thing hit us pretty hard. It doesn't look like much on a video, I don't think, but I guess it illustrates how the steepness of the wave is much more important than the size. And it's hard to get a feeling of the intensity of these waves from the video too, so that's why I go ino all this detail. But whatever. Here it is. Only about the first 20 seconds of it is even worthwhile, so don't bother watching the rest. It's really long.



http://www.youtube.com/v/ng88YFKlxR8



Oh yeah. So the reason I'm posting tonight is that we'll probably be crossing the Gulf Stream tomorrow, since it's supposed to be good weather. Wish us luck. We should be in the states by tomorrow night, if all goes well, but won't be near a phone for a bit. So don't worry. We'll be going up to Port St. Lucie inlet, across Lake Okeechobee, across Florida, then sailing along the Gulf of Mexico to New Orleans. We hope to arrive in ten days or more.

I guess that's it. I could write more, about how we're in Bimini, how it's awesome, etc. but I gotta go. There's hardly time to post this even.

I guess while I'm at it, I'll put a video up of us racing in the Class C regatta sail races in Staniel Cay. The video barely shows me for one second, but you get the feel for what was going on. It's a montage of short clips, and shows the one boat sinking when that happened. That was pretty cool.



www.youtube.com/v/UVgikm3obVo



Take care,

Shaft Dynamo

Monday, April 21, 2008

Ruth's Grand Ol' Ye Olde Spanish Wells Entry

Thurs. April 10th
So we up and left Hatchet Bay for bigger and better things. The night
previous was spent devouring a luscious fried fish dinner with our new
friends from Cornwall, England, John and Christina. Jack and John
conversed while Chris and I chatted it up. The friendly couple's
children are grown and have children of their own, but despite our age
difference I can't remember the last time I connected so well with
strangers. We connected on almost all levels. It was a wonderful night
("absolutely lovely" in fact). We toasted to the fact that Chris had
never stepped foot into a McDonalds. We ate at an outdoor restaurant
and bar called The Spot. When we first walked up we realized this was
the restaurant managed by our new Bahamian friend, Robert! (Robert
gave us the lift to and from Governor's Harbor from Rainbow Beach
during a rainstorm). Robert gave us such a hearty greeting with huge
smiles and hugs that Chris and John wondered if we were old friends,
but in fact this was just the dude who hitched us a ride to the store
the other day. Somehow it felt (and apparently appeared) as though we
had known Robert for years! That's how easy it is to make friends down
here!
After awhile John and Chris headed back to their rental cottage, and
we stuck around, Jack continuing to play numerous games of Dominos
with the happy-go-lucky locals. We drank till our heart's (and
liver's) content, making it back to the boat just in time to pass out.
The following day's weather couldn't have been more perfect for
sailing! The winds were east/southeast and we needed to head northwest
to make it through what is called Current Cut before dark. Current Cut
is a cut between Eleuthra and Current Island in which the current is
amazingly powerful. Our plan was to completely sail the 21 miles to
get through the cut and anchor somewhere around the corner for the
night. The day after that, we would complete the trip to our ultimate
destination: Spanish Wells. All we heard of Spanish Wells was that it
was pretty populated and had almost anything you might need. We
figured we would rent some scuba gear and find out where the sunken
civil war train was! Despite our hangovers we set out for the trip
super excited!
We ran with the wind over sparkling waters. Blue sky, low billowing
clouds, the aroma of the sea, full puffed out sails. It was nice to be
solely sailing again without aid of the motor. The water was rolling
just enough to be pleasant, the sound of the wind was peaceful, the
tack – flawless. Jack dropped three baited lines in the water, one of
the lines strewn with ten different lures! He insisted we were BOUND
to catch something now, and I agreed. Unfortunately we were sailing
over the Sound where the depth was no greater than 30 feet and we
reached the cut without even a nibble at the lines. Jack napped during
most of the trip, then took over right before the cut while I read The
Lobster Chronicles by Linda Greenlaw, one of the captains of a
swordfish ship who survived the actual "Perfect Storm."
Before entering the cut, we unexpectedly bumped into some rocks on
the bottom. The boat was fine and we were able to free ourselves
quickly but we moved fast to keep the boat into the wind and pull down
the sails in order to gain some control over the current. I understand
how it would be easy to drive straight into the shallow water because
the glistening reflection of the sun settling in the west had fully
concealed its color. By looking behind us, we were able to find the
channel by simply observing the color difference that tells us bottom
depth. We headed out of the sandy brown into the deep blue, passing a
huge anchored fishing ship that was fascinating to behold.
The channel that runs through the cut is as much as seventeen meters
deep! The current moved us at an unreal rate of speed! We turned
around the corner and started heading north. Realizing that it was
only 5:30pm and there was a shipwreck only five miles away, we decided
we'd anchor near it and if it was half-submerged we'd snorkel it the
next day.
The wreck was beached, which washed away all possibilities of
snorkeling, but it was captivating! It was a long freighter,
stretching probably 250 feet, its name just barely readable due to the
rust and corrosion – it was called Bahama Provider. Since we still
had
some sunlight we dinghy'd over to explore it. As the sun sunk lower in
the sky, we climbed the rocks and rusted bits of ladder up to its
deck.
It was by far the best shipwreck we've explored! There was a large
hole on its deck that exposed the inside of the hull, where we stuck
our heads down and heard the extraordinary echo of the water splashing
against its side. We took turns whistling and bird-calling (cah-caww!)
into the gi- normous belly of the beast. At the back of the ship, just
below the platform of the deck and underneath the pilot house, were
pallets stacked rather neatly compared to the rest of the damage to
the ship. These extremely dry stacks of wood gave Jack a very good
idea – to have a fire that night…ON the deck of the shipwreck!
In order to reach the level of the pilot house, we had to climb over
the pallets and lift ourselves up using the rusty, broken up parts of
what used to be ladders. The interior of the pilot house was neat!
Many of the marine gadgets and controls were in decent shape. Jack
took a souvenir – a tab labeled "Shaft Dynamo" that was located under
some type of control. One wall, as well as the area underneath the
windows, was completed covered in meters, dials, switches, and other
sorts of controls. The fiberglass and the cardboard sheets of the
ceiling had all fallen down. The windows had been blown out but their
interiors were outlined by sharp, jagged pieces of glass. I took a few
pictures through the view of the windows so that the frame of the
picture would look serrated.
Behind the pilot house was a staircase leading to the cabins inside
its hull! We cautiously made out way down the tiny steps. The sun was
just high enough to provide enough light to explore for another half
an hour. The rooms consisted of a lounge area, kitchen, four bedrooms,
and three heads, one that included a shower. The portholes in the
bathrooms were beautifully cracked like spider webs and backlit by the
setting sun. Some portholes were completely blown out. The place was
in disarray and smelled musty and moldy. Wires and tubes dangled from
the ceiling. While carefully stepping into the further most cabin and
gently pushing hanging cables out of my way, I spotted a mouse that,
upon spotting me, scurried into the corner quicker than you could say
"If you give a mouse a…." And you best believe I was out of there
before you could say the word "cookie!" I finally mustered the courage
to go back in (with Jack as my shield of course), but as the light
faded we decided to make out way back upstairs.
We discussed our ideas on what might have happened to the ship. We
agreed it had been through a hurricane and Jack suggested it had been
anchored out somewhere and had been pushed in by the storm. (The
anchor chain was hanging out of the ship's side. It was the first cool
thing we noticed and took pictures of as we approached). Many items in
the freighter were mostly intact, which led us to suppose it must have
been wrecked in recent years. Jack guessed Hurricane Andrew in '92.
Sure enough throughout our exploring he came across an old shipping
manual that was dated 1992! Boo-ya.
Jack paddled back to the boat to grab a lighter while I pulled apart
the dead wood from the pallets, cleared an area on the least rusted
part deck, and stacked the boards in an orderly bonfire-ish fashion.
The bonfire was AMAZING! Just imagine: we had a fire on the huge,
expansive deck of a shipwrecked freighter! The stars were out. I saw
my friend Orion who I've seen almost nightly on this trip. Jack found
an old cooler and a tire for us to sit on. The only thing missing was
a bag of 'mallows. J poured a bit of motor oil on the wood to get it
ablazin'…and holy smokes was it a ablaze! It even sunk the steel
floor
of the deck inward! We sat there for hours just enjoying the setting
like crazy. The tall flames towered over me as I sat on the cooler.
These would have been some mighty burnt 'mallows. We sat upwind of the
fire of course, but still had to back away from the intense heat! It
took a long time for it to die, but once it did we re-stacked the wood
and relit it, we were enjoying ourselves so much! I eventually became
so relaxed that I nodded off leaning against my best friend. When I
sleepily came to, he asked me if I'd like to go back to the boat, but
I replied that I'd would rather stay for a bit more – the experience
was just so nice. I fell back asleep to the low, rumbling roar of the
flames.

Friday, April 11th
Friday the wind had died but we only had about five more miles to
make it to Spanish Wells so we motored. Jack drove while I, donned in
my wesuit and snorkeling gear, dragged behind the boat clinging to the
dinghy, just like Jack had done when looking to spear fish. There were
no fish to spear this time, and we knew this because of the texture of
the bottom. The bottom was all soft sand, no coral, no rock, hardly
any grass even, and only around 5 feet deep the whole way. I just
wanted to experience what it was like to be dragged around submersed
under water. One of the coolest things of the experience was floating
through the bubbles of the engine's propeller. It reminded me of when
I snorkeled above Jack while he scuba-dove a Blue Hole near Thompson
Bay at Long Island. At that time his air bubbles rose to the surface,
sparkling in the light of the sun, rolling upward, bubbling and
bursting in my face, overwhelming my entire view. It was sweet.
Another cool thing about dragging behind the boat was that I saw
around ten huge starfish, thick and bloated, intricately designed, and
vividly colored bright and dark oranges and yellows. Each starfish was
similar in design yet at closer looks were intricately different in
amazing detail! Kind of like the snowflake effect.
We anchored in a channel behind a bunch of moored boats once we
arrived in Spanish Wells. At that time it was after five o'clock,
therefore everything on the island was closed even though it was a
Friday night. We were lucky enough to come across an open restaurant.
I ordered a "Blizzard" (imagine my fingers making quotes). Although I
was grateful for the treat, I think it's funny that their idea of a
"Blizzard" was melting some ice cream in a microwave and throwing in a
Snickers Bar broken in half. Hahaha. Toto, we're not in Dairy Queen
any more.
We spent the evening walking around the island and gawking at its
immaculateness. I mean, the town was pristine as a green bean (if you
know what I mean). Jack kept calling it Stepford and I was in total
and utter agreement. It was to the point of creepiness. Sheer
creepiness. I joked of becoming his "Stepford wife" but in this case I
would develop a Bahamian/British accent, gain 100 lbs, and acquire a
rude demeanor. The white settlers were not Bahamian in the "Bahamian"
sense – they were strictly of British descent rather than
slaves-of-the-British-descent like most of the Bahamian population.
Their accents were mostly British with a slight Bahamian twist. They
weren't very friendly – okay, they weren't friendly at all. They
were
all clearly very rich – which isn't a bad quality on its own – but
most everyone was terribly impolite and unfriendly. On the other hand,
the black settlers were their usual out-of-the-way helpful and
friendly selves. Just goes to show attitude is a cultural thing.
Although the vibe wasn't so great on ol' Spanish Smells, we stuck
around another day so that we could rent dive gear from the dive shop
with the aim of diving the underwater train wreck that was located
somewhere on the reefs off of what is called The Devil's Backbone, an
intense and dangerous set of reefs and coral rock on the north side of
Eleuthra that most boaters don't attempt to navigate without a
professional pilot to guide them. Of course, we had all the confidence
that we could tackle the treacherous track ourselves. The wreck is a
Civil War train that was supposedly captured by the South. We inquired
about it to random people and most people had no idea it existed. One
fellow sailor named John had seen it before and said it consisted of
some carriage wheels and broken up cargo cars. It sounded titillating
and we were looking forward to scuba diving it!
That night I looked over the chart and mapped out a four mile path
that I could run the next day.

Saturday, April 12th

This morning at around 8am I ran the 4 –miler I had planned the night
before. The course was this: I ran the length of Spanish Wells on its
main street all the way to its western point, ran along the beach on
its west coast, crossed the bridge leading south to Russell Island,
then turned around and ran back along the southern coast of Spanish
Wells, along the harbor where all the fishing boats were either docked
or being worked on. On all my runs in the Bahamas, I've exchanged a
friendly wave or "good-morning" with every car or person I passed.
Today, however, was a bit different. As usual, every black Bahamian I
waved to returned the greeting with a welcoming smile, yet every white
Bahamian or tourist just stared blankly at me or, after making obvious
eye contact, turned away! The hostility caught me off guard! I added
it to the list of reasons why Spanish Wells was my least favorite spot
in the Bahamas.
On a positive note, the road that ran along the harbor was an amazing
sight! It seemed like I was running through a movie set! These huge
fishing boats sat docked or were lifted onto land via gigantic boat
ramps so they could be worked on. The scene had a magical feel to it
–
everyone worked harmoniously on the boats, painting or applying
fiberglass, grinding or sanding, carrying tools or fish or ice. I
actually witnessed someone grab large bags of salt out of his truck,
toss it to another man conveyor-belt style, who then turned and tossed
it rhythmically to yet another guy who dropped the bag inside a
seafood shop. I was just waiting for everyone to burst extravagantly
into song like some musical about life as a fisherman. The teamwork
was inspiring. It really put a spring in my step.
And get this: the previous day when Jack and I were walking around the
island, we came upon a sort of art project made up of sea and boat
paraphernalia. Among the random collection were two pure-white crab
skeletons with almost every part of the shell intact. I was in awe
that almost the entire body of a crab could be found and preserved! I
mean, how does the complete crab shell wash up on the beach without
falling apart or being eaten on the way? THEN just as I finished my
run and was about to get into the dinghy, I noticed the body of a dead
crab on the beach!!! This crab was fresh out of the water – its smell
and color indicated a recent death. Its body was in one piece,
completely undamaged! It lay there, its oversized right claw calling
out to me! Just like that - I had stumbled upon my own Crab
Skeleton!!! (As of this moment, I had let it dry out in the sun for a
week and just recently packed it into an airtight container with salt
to take back with me. I can't wait until it turns all bony white!
What a souvenir!)
When I got back to the boat I placed it in Jack's crab trap with a
post-it note in its claw saying "Love you, Jack" (aww, how sweet…) I
pointed it out by pretending to gasp in surprise and saying "Look, you
caught a crab!" Haha, good fun.
That morning we visited a seafood shop and bought two Lobster tails
and two huge Grouper fillets! Visiting the dive shop turned out to be
a big disappointment because we discovered they did not have any dive
gear for rent nor did they refill tanks. They hadn't even heard of the
train wreck. But all was good. We were pointed in the direction of a
local who may know where it was located, and we decided after finding
the location we would snorkel it instead. Then Jack called Jonathan,
the real estate agent who is helping us negotiate the sale on the
property at Rainbow Beach. (As of now, we have called Jonathan on and
off for a week and the sale looks hopeful but we will not be able to
work out any details until we return to the states).
Back at the boat we dined on grilled chicken, plantains, rice, and
veggie salad. Jack made milk thistle tea, which was spectacular. I
finished reading a book called "Designing Your House on an Island." We
got kicked out of our anchorage by some (white) locals who didn't like
where we were. Spanish Wells is the most inhospitable place in the
Bahamas I've concluded.
So we moved a ways east to a public mooring ball, right around the
corner from the start of the Devil's Backbone. Before settling in, we
drove around the point and checked out a bit of the 'Bone. The wind
was coming from the south and we heard it would continue to throughout
the following day, which means the Dev's B-bone would be calm and
easier to navigate. Perfect timing. We moored. A boater named John
drove up on his dinghy and introduced himself. Turns out he snorkeled
the train wreck before so he was able to tell us more or less where it
was located! We planned on snorkeling the wreck the next day at low
tide. We were told it was located in about 15 feet o' water, which is
perfect for viewing and free diving! Before moving to our new
anchorage we got a weather report from a nearby boater (who happened
to be from Michigan) and he informed us of an approaching front that
would hit Sunday night and carry on through Wednesday. With this
information we decided that after snorkeling on Sunday, we would move
to Harbor Island to anchor during the front. Harbor Island is located
on a bay that would provide all-around protection for us during the
storm. I was very excited to check out this wreck! Couldn't wait!!!!

SUNDAY, April 13th

Lucky 13, eh?
Well, we had a very successful time navigating the Devil's Backbone
but an unlucky time finding the wreck. Thankfully, Jack made waypoints
on the GPS the night before, some of which were provided for us via
the ever-helpful Explorer Charts. The waypoints led us through a
twisting path between all the hazardous reefs of the B-Bone. Jack
drove while I stood on deck looking out for sharp, protruding coral or
dark patches of rock just beneath the surface. We left at around 11 in
the morning, a short time after low tide. The wind was blowing from
the south (the Backbone is on the north side of Eleuthra) and the sun
was shining bright, which meant that visual piloting would be easy.
The route took us all over the place – far out to sea as well as
immediately off of shore; we moved through wide passages and squeezed
through narrow channels.
All in all, we dropped anchor three times among the perilous reefs,
using the tips we received yesterday to look for signs of the wreck.
Unfortunately I accidentally created a faulty waypoint for the wreck,
which is why we had to move the first time. The next two times we
dropped anchor, we had some help from John (the fellow sailor we had
met yesterday), who came whipping by on his mini-catamaran, hoping to
join us in our pursuit. But the waypoint he had for the wreck was
ridiculously way off the charts. While we sat anchored, he let the
wind push him far out among the reefs, spinning quickly back and forth
looking for the wreck but was unable to locate it. He eventually gave
up and left us.
The wind was fairly strong at this point and we could really feel it
where we were out among the reefs. Some of the swells rolled six feet
high and a lot of the waves were breaking over the reefs. Determined,
we suited up and grabbed the GPS, grapnel anchor, and underwater
camera. We cautiously got into the dinghy. I rowed out a small ways –
it was "a breeze" when going with the wind, but trying to row against
it was questionable so I tested how hard it would be to get back to
the boat. It wasn't bad. Then Jack did the same because he wanted to
see for himself how difficult it would be to get back. It was apparent
we were both pretty nervous about the situation. We knew we'd have to
row quite a ways out among the breakers in order to even find this
thing. Jack began to row. We looked at each other. One of us said, "Do
you really want to do this?" With the hefty wind, the rolling,
breaking waves, and our tiny inflatable boat that was slowly losing
air in one section, it didn't take any discussion to agree on turning
around. Despite our prior excitement, this just wasn't worth trying to
find.
I was somewhat disappointed but much more relieved to be back in the
boat, avoiding the risk of being blown out to sea. We packed up and
navigated the rest of the Backbone until we made it to Harbor Island.
Driving across the bay was gorgeous! The colors of the water were
spectacular! Due to the frequently changing depth, the colors ranged
from clear aqua blue to deep navy and were laid out in a striped
pattern. The clouds were also gorgeous – full and bulging
indescribable patterns.
The marinas at Harbor Island were predictably too expensive for us,
and the anchorages were overcrowded with empty fishing boats. We
dropped and pulled anchor four times before finally finding a spot far
from shore in the crowded bay. Every time we dropped anchor in the
Devil's Backbone, I had to let out plenty of scope due to the depth,
the waves, and the wind. Therefore I had to haul approximately 120
feet of line against the force of the wind each time we moved. After
doing this a few times and then having to do it again and again at
Harbor Island, my arms had gotten so sore I had to ask Jack to pull up
the anchor the last time. We settled in, drank a couple beers, and my
soreness magically vanished…
I made a hearty meal of chicken parmesan and buttered brocolli for
lunch. Johnny took a nap and I mixed a bit of music for a couple hours
on my computer. We concluded the day in the company of our ol' buddy
Clint Eastwood by means of watching "High Plains Drifter" on Jack's
laptop. The anchorage was calm. The night – smooth and relaxing. The
wind gusted like crazy for a short while in middle of night startling
us awake with its howl. There was a bit of slight rain, but it passed
quickly, giving us only a small taste of the cold front to come…

MONDAY, April 14th

I awoke to a beautiful, sunny morning. The cold front had not yet
arrived and the bay was as peaceful as a sleeping monkey. I took the
opportunity to dinghy the unusual long way into shore and run around
the island. I jogged two hilly miles on a soft sandy road, conquering
two challengingly steep hills along the way. Everyone I saw and
greeted were majorly friendly, although the tourists were not so much.
Some of them gave me odd looks and blank stares when I said "hello."
It struck me as so bizarre! Why are some people afraid of saying
"hello"??
I'll tell you who isn't afraid – the roosters! Not that they say
"hello" to me (or I to them for that matter) but there are so many of
them waddling around and they are so used to being around people that
there were a few times when I almost stepped on them as they crossed
the street! It got to the point where I had to increase my pace when I
saw one in the road just to startle them a bit so they'd get out of
the way!
As usual it was a great run and I was feeling good. I paddled back to
boat, put on a bathing suit and slathered on mucho sunscreen. We had
Lobster tails for breakfast dipped in hot butter. It was served with a
side of rice and veggies (red onion, green pepper, carrots, cucumber,
tomatoes, and broccoli). We topped it off with slices of whole wheat
fresh homemade Bahamian bread dipped in the hot butter. I found a jug
of apple juice in our storage cooler. Cha-ching! What an amazing
breakfast!!! We are sooo lucky! What could be better?
After cleaning up, I packed our snorkel gear and a couple of books,
then set into town with J. Our plan: to hang out at the pink sand
beach on the ocean side of the island. J bought a beer and I downed a
Red Bull. What could be better?
We strolled around for an hour or so, analyzing the Harbor Island
scene. It's a very pretty island and built up in terms of housing,
stores, and resorts. However, there is not a payphone that works. We
were in search of one in order to contact Jonathan, the real estate
agent. We stepped into a grocery store to ask if we could use theirs,
when we unexpectedly ran into Jamal, a guy we met while driving around
Whale Point when we rented the car a couple weeks ago. We chatted for
a bit and he let Jack use his cell phone. It was good to see a
familiar face, even in a town of friendly people who all act like
they're your best friend anyway…
On the way to the ocean we passed a shop called "Cash's Liquor Store"
which made us miss our doggies! We can't wait to see them!!! We also
saw a dead rooster in the middle of the road, which still didn't
answer the age-old question of why it was trying to cross… We
unfortunately didn't have the camera on us (it would have made for a
humorous blog picture caption). We eventually made it to the beach,
passing the stall of horsies on our way down to the ocean where I had
the Best Swim Ever! The ocean was SO CALM since wind was still coming
from the southwest and the ocean is on east side. There was one big
breaking wave constantly curling toward shore that was SO FORCEFUL and
a ton of fun to ride! It carried my body swiftly into shore with an
alarmingly strong force! The water was SO WARM and the pinkish sand
super soft like flour! We donned our snorkel gear to see what we could
see. We swam a few hundred feet out. Although the water was probably
30 feet deep it was still crystal clear! The bottom consisted of
rippling lines of soft sand. We only saw one small silvery fish and
the stump of an old tree, yet it was still an amazing experience
swirling around in the expansive sea, feeling swallowed by its its
vastness, feeling so spacious and free! We eventually headed back
towards shore, free diving and swimming along the bottom. What a
thrill! I really, really enjoyed swimming along the ocean floor! Being
so close to the bottom, it felt like I was moving so fast! I felt like
I was a part of the ocean! I felt like a fish! I LOVED IT!
After awhile we took our gear off, set it on the beach, and went back
in to swim around. Jack eventually got out for good while I stayed in
– I couldn't get enough! I swam and dove down with my eyes closed
(because I wear contacts). I was in love with the scene – immersed in
the BEAUTFUL warm colors of ocean, blanketed with puffy white clouds
among a profoundly blue sky, hugged by the pinkish-white beach. The
water was so clear, so warm, so salty. What could be better???
I daydreamed of bringing my family to this beach if Jack and I ever
bought that lot. They would love the sand – it is SO SOFT and
powdery, like FLOUR on my feet. Yum yum! I dried off in the sun on a
hotel beach chair while reading Treasure Island. Jack and I started
going back and forth dishing out ideas for our possible future
vacation home. We had so much fun sketching out our plans on the back
page of the Design Your Island Home book. What a perfect day. I just
had such a spectacular time snorkeling and swimming around in the
wonderful, beautiful, strong ocean today. Unbelievable. I Love Jack.
On our way back to the dinghy, I asked a Bahamian where we could find
a public water spigot and his response was so friendly! He was not
only eager to tell us where to find the water, but insisted on taking
the time to lead us right to it! That's just how people are down here
– always ready to act on your behalf, always hospitable, always
making
sure you get what you need.
We dinghy'd back to boat. We changed out of our wet clothes. I put on
a cute yellow dress that Johnny bought me while we were in Governor's
Harbor. J Jack adjusted the bridle and the solar panels and examined
the oudoor speakers to see what could be done to fix them. It looked
like they were shot and will need to be replaced once we're back in
the states. He then replaced the Quick Connects on the battery tester
wires. As Jack ran around the boat making other such adjustments and
improvements, I prepared a Grouper meal. We sat down and enjoyed
grilled Grouper fillets topped with sautéed onions and garlic in a
gravy sauce, and a side of fried potatoes with seasoning. We ate as
the sun set beautifully. What could be better than this?
I remember we drank A TON of water with dinner to make up for our
lacking it all day. Poor Jack, it doesn't seem to matter how much
water he drinks, he is constantly dehydrated. He recently recalled
having a problem with his skin when he was younger that correlates
being dehydrated with his skin becoming extremely dry and therefore
itchy. A couple of weeks ago he read in a medical book at the library
that mercury poisoning can cause skin irritation and dryness, as well
as increased symptoms of asthma (which had started becoming more of a
problem for him right before these skin problems started). The medical
text even described the skin problem that mercury poisoning can cause
as "chronic urticaria" which is what the allergists and dermatologists
in Nassau concluded Jack had. His fillings are made with mercury and
apparently he has quite a few of them. We are so desperate to learn
what is going on with him, he is going to have his blood tested when
we get back to the U.S.
After we ate, I worked on updating my blog. I was super exhausted in a
relaxing sense from all the running, walking, and swimming we had done
that day. Exhausted yet feeling GREAT. Nothing like concluding the day
with a handful of creamy cookies while watching The Simpsons. Now tell
me, what could be better???? I love everyone. Goodnight.






Sunday April. 21st…
I have much more blogging to catch up on, but as of now (Monday, April
21st) I want to let everyone know we are on our way home. Friday we
sailed from Harbor Island to Nassau. Today we're going to sail 50
miles from Nassau to the Berry Islands (most likely we'll end up
slightly north of Great Harbor where we will plunder a shipwreck for a
toilet – Jack is buying a hacksaw this morning to do the job). The
trip should take around seven or eight hours. From there we'll anchor
for the night then sail 82 miles to Bimini where we will wait for a
good weather window to cross the Gulf Stream. Depending on how long
that takes we will either land in Florida or keep sailing along the
southern coast to New Orleans.
Just last night we met a professional yachtsman named John at the
marina who informed us of a waterway that flows through the middle of
Florida, which would shave an insane amount of miles off of our trip!
He is letting us make copies of some of his chart pages this morning.
We also have a number of older charts outlining the southern coast
that a couple we met at Warderick Wells, Steve and Kate, gave to us in
Georgetown. Those charts go into detail concerning the waterways
inside the coast as well. We could conceivably stay within the states
as we make our way west to New Orleans. Time will tell!
Once at Bimini, I will be sure to post the events that occurred from
April 15th onward. Some of what took place is pretty exciting!! Love
to the world, yes even you!

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