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WALTER BONAME, RIP. WISHING TON A SPEEDY AND FULL RECOVERY.

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Big ol' lobster 3-15-08












BIG OLD LOBSTER, BUDDY. Saturday, 3-15, 2008
Ruth woke me up with the revelation that it was time to leave for Little San Salvador, because it was totally calm out. So we got packing. Before that though, we went and checked out our fish trap in the shipwreck, only to find that the smaller fish were swimming in and out of it, through the holes, while the bigger fish were sitting back and laughing. I think I also smelled cigar smoke, but I’m not sure. There was another big fish I was follerin’ around for a bit in the big wreck, but he gave me the slip. We busted out for LSS, and since the weather was so nice, and the water so calm, we decided to try some reefs on the way there for lobster and fish. We hit up the north side, since they can’t get picked on as much due to weather. I went straight to the shore, hitting up rocks and coral ledges, and Miss Sparkle stayed a bit deeper. Right about the time I shouted that there was a lobster under this rock, she was hollerin’ to me that there was something really big in the water. She wasn’t sure if it was a shark or what, but she came scootin’ to shore really fast.
Well, that lobster I saw was a monster. That sucker was big, and in there deep. I kept taking breaths and going into this rock, at least up to my waist, into this opening that was maybe three feet wide, 24 inches tall at most, and maybe 6 feet deep. I tried to grab his antennae, but the one I got ahold of broke off and he was scooting hard backward. Ruth was trying to grab him from the small hole on the other side while I was going in the front door. Finally, I shot him with the spear through another hole on the side. Ruth held the spear, hanging out of the hole, and I grabbed the lobster, and yanked him off it, but he was struggling mightily. I finally took that sucker and pushed him hard against the bottom, and finally we took the spear and ran him through from the top, right between the eyes, and he seemed to go to his glorious reward pretty quickly after that.
We swam him to the boat and took the pictures you see. We figure it was around 6 pounds or something, and was 36 inches from antenna to tail. Wow, our first one was the biggest we’ve seen.
We had lobster in melted butter for dinner, and barely dented that tail, it was so massive, that and Ruth made some wicked potatoes that filled us up while we steamed it. So that was yesterday, so today we shucked it all, filling a large bowl for lobster salad, another Tupperware for me to make lobster with cream sauce over some pasta, and then we ate the rest of the tail for dinner. Then I made cookies on the grill, while we listened to This American Life on the radio. We threw out a line for a bit and I hooked another triggerfish for a while, but she finally gave me the slip, and went off to gloat while I hung my head in shame.
Tomorrow, we’ll check out two shipwrecks, and then swing around the south side of the island, to find a creek to the inland lake where we’ll hole up during the front, till Wednesday or so. After that, we’ll jet to Eleuthra, which is a really big island, (maybe 2 miles wide, generally, but really long, like 40 miles or something. Or a hundred. Who knows. We’ve had this place to ourselves, though we did see onc cruise ship earlier today, no doubt coming into Half Moon Harbour, which is a spot on the south side of the island that they frequent. It’s otherwise deserted. We did see three Bahamian dudes on a speedboat earlier today, who yelled to us, asking if we were okay. And we heard a plane, but you could barely see it. I guess I tell you this to give you an idea of what this is like.
Good times, very quiet, and not much to report. We’re filling our days with slow everything, reading, sleeping in, and Ruth’s been making music. I did for a bit today, but my computer is usually used more for watching the Sopranos or blogging. My music is mostly me bleating away on the clarinet, much to the dismay of the fish, and few others. Okay, I guess that’s it.

I miss St. Cash hardcore. And St. Mick. And you guys a little bit too.

lobster photos 3-15 1


3-15 lobster photos





more photos from entry below



Jack's homemade cookies.



Ruth clowning with some old guy



That kissy face



It's funny. I see a treasure chest, Ruth sees a jar of pretzels. Priorities.

Bennett's Harbour 3-12-08




This is a flower or something.



Even angels gotta sleep, sucka.



Trigger fish Jack speared.



The trigger fish after the shark gottim.


First, I know this is two weeks old. I'm just putting stuff up in order. I'll put up some more tomorrow. Ruth wants to go see the island, not upload photos. Hey, she's the boss.



BENNETT’S HARBOUR, Wednesday, March 12, 2008 by the Jack attack
First of all, my wife is kickass. Did I mention that? I love that girl. Let’s see, what else?
Okay, the cold front passed. We went upisland about a mile or so, outside of the creek we got stuck in, and that’s where I wrote the last bloggy. I went into the resort where the dinner was $45 and used their internet and we ate out burgers, and I was really bummed that I couldn’t put the pictures with the blog that they were associated with. That’s something I should have started doing a long time ago, and as I was trying to do it, it occurred to me that Tom, Becky, or Laura would have done that from the first day. Well, I’m a slow learner. You forgive me? Of course you do, that’s why you’re reading this. Ruth and I are sitting here waiting for a shark. But I’m getting ahead of myself. We’re up in Bennett’s Harbour, but first I’ll tell you about the past couple of days. The rain let up, and we realized we could use some groceries, and were super low on water. Again. So Ruth left to run her run, and on the way back, pick up groceries in the backpack. Well, the grocery store was 3 ½ miles away, not 1, so I have to tip my hat to her for once again hauling all that back. She blows my mind, what she throws on her back and lugs around.
Well, while she did that, the rain poured like crazy about a couple hundred feet from the boat, and I watched the next sloop over get soaked for a good while. I figured it was coming, and had plenty of time to set up a plastic table cloth from the lifelines, and a bucket under one end to catch the runoff caught in the table cloth. So I set it up and waited. And it rained and rained and rained on that other area, and nothing on us. There was just no wind, but it was weird to watch that for so long, and it never came over to where we were. Anyway, I broke down and went into shore and asked at the resort. It turns out the lady who owns it with her husband is from West Bloomfield, and there many more people there from Kalamazoo. So she gave us free water.
Why am I so long winded? Sorry. We left, and decided on a new way to fish. Ruth drove, and I hung off the dinghy in my snorkel gear in 10-15 feet of water till I saw decent coral and dove down looking for fish. I followed a couple to piece of coral, and waited for them to circle around back to me. They were really strange, swimming not with their tails, but with two fins, one on top, and one on bottom, that moved opposite each other, flapping. It was really odd.
While I waited, I dove down and looked under it for lobster. No lobster, but a big fish under there, wedged up under the rock. I shot that sucker, and go to try to take him out. He wouldn’t budge. I got my gloves and pulled with one hand on the rock, and still nothing. I pulled the spear right out of him, barbed end and all. So, I shot him again, and he still didn’t move. This time, I ended up down about 13 feet, standing on this piece of coral, with both hands pulling upward on the spear, for a good while. I must have dove down 15 times to yank on him, over about half an hour. Finally, I got it out of there, and took it to the boat. I was nervous about how long it took, because the blood attracts sharks, and so does the flopping sound of an injured fish.
Ruth volunteered to clean it, and it was the strangest thing. It had two big hooks on it, one on the dorsal side, and one on the bottom, that it had hooked into the rock with, and that’s why it was so hard to retrieve. And the skin was like sheet metal. The fish scaler didn’t touch the scales at all, and hardly could scrape a mark into its tough hide. The scales, in fact, were all welded together like, so they were one smooth, tough skin. I couldn’t believe it when Ruth showed me. Not only that, but we actually had to use wire cutters to cut the skin once we did puncture it. Really odd. So we finally cleaned it, and got two large filets, which we offered to share with our friends we had just met because we heard them say they were out of food, and also because we finally had enough of something to share some. They told us it’s called a triggerfish. The bones on top and bottom, where the fins would be, are more like spiked hooks, to hook into the rock. A barracuda would just bite and never get through that tough skin, I suppose. Just too tough and slippery. Later that day, we hiked across the island a mile or two, and I snorkeled out into the surf a ways and poked around and took one shot at a big fish, but didn’t pursue it beyond that, because I was out a ways and didn’t want to be out with a bleeding, flopping fish. Also, we heard later that you shouldn’t snorkel there, or something like that, becaue there are a lot of sharks there. Well, NOW they tell me. Just kidding. It was fun.
Well, we ate on their boat, and they made sides, potato salad, coleslaw, beer and carrot cake. We also brought homemade chocolate chip oatmeal cookie batter, and baked those in their oven. The whole thing was great. We finally got the grill fixed too, so we made one pan cookie too, which was really good. We have a ton more batter too. So, between that, all the oatmeal cookies, oreos, pudding cups, and other good stuff Ruth bought, we have no complaints. If you ever worry about us and how we’re doing, just remember that we may not have a phone, but we have four kinds of cookies within arm’s reach at all times. It really is a tough life.
In the morning. We jetted the 15 miles north (now with a strong south wind), and tucked into this river in Bennett’s Harbour, similar to where we got stuck in Fernandez Creek, but we threw out 2 anchors, one fore and one aft, so the boat couldn’t wander with what we now see is a considerable current. That’ll help us avoid being a statistic- there are two large boats sunk in here, plus two small boats upside down within 100 feet of our right now.
We took a nice walk, had dinner for $8 each (great price) plus $1.50 for a massive ice cream cone, and $3.00 for a pint of chocolate. You can’t keep it on the boat, so I had to eat it all right then. Sometimes you just have to do what you have to do, that’s all. We returned, and I built another shelf, and Ruth sewed up my gearbag, and tried to pretend we were productive people for about an hour.
We had taken the fish carcass and hung it over the side on a piece of 1000 lb. test braided nylon cord, and played our newly working XM radio and were talking on the boat in our INCREDIBLY calm anchorage (our friends are out in the rough water, rolling back and forth- you have to feel sorry for these people on these big, luxurious boats, they don’t know how good we have it) when something HIT THE BOAT. And there was a huge splash.
Well, it was a shark. It smacked the side of the boat trying to get that fish. We ran out there, hooked up a light, but it was gone. The fish remained, so we kept an ear out. Sure enough, an hour later, we hear another big splash, and maybe a yank on the boat, and something thrash back and forth. We catch it swimming away, and it bit that fish right in half. Maybe a foot wide, the fish was, and maybe 18 inches long, the part it bit off, and right through all that bone, and tough skin that we had to use wire cutters on. That’s some sharp teeth, it has.
So we’re waiting, listening to Art Blakey, Wayne Shorter, Wynton Kelly and such. Ruth has now expired, and is sweetly sleeping on the bench. Tomorrow we plan to ride around with this cat that knows of all the cheap property on the island, because hey, you never know, maybe someday. After that, on to Little San Salvador, which is halfway between here and Eleuthra. It’s uninhabited, but is a stop for cruise ships. It’s supposed to be beautiful, and there’s reefs all around it. It’s also cool because even though it’s probably only a mile or two across, there’s a salt water lake in the middle, accessible by river to us at high tide, and everyone else pretty much never. So we’ll have yet another amazing private anchorage all to ourselves. After that, Eleuthra, home of the pink sand beaches. Hopefully, they’ll have bread there, the only thing we continually lack. But we just got yeast, so if not bread, maybe we can get flour and make our own. It’s the only thing we lack.
I think I’ll go take a pic of that half a fish before I turn in.
Catch ya on the flip flop.
JL

P.S. Oh yeah. We’re going to try to buy some really big hooks when we get a chance, for the next time we get a shark to bite. Cuz hey, you never know… shark sandwich.

Still in Bennett's Harbour, 3-11-08



Shipwreck where we anchored. A grim reminder of the sea's watery grasp.







Conch bounty from the marina.




These kids were diving off of the pier and swimming, and then climbing out via boats nearby. Cool that they could do that without ever thinking anything of it, and neither did the owners, apparently. Noone even locks stuff here, it doesn't seem like. But then, if you know everyone, you don't have to worry about it.

THE NEXT DAY, WHATEVER. JUST PAY ATTENTION.
Okay. We’re here. We’re still here. We’re in Bennett’s Harbor. Pardon me. HarBOUR. It’s English. We spent the morning with this cat Joshua. He says he has a cheap hovel for sale. We looked at it. We’ll see. It was quite a hovel. Some lady lived in it and died in it, even though he doesn’t know who she is, and his family owns it.
After we came back home, we saw massive spotted eagle rays, who swam under the boat (Ruth got a video, but blogspot doesn’t support video), and I jumped in the water and they took off. I still swam off and caught ‘em on film. Close up, like. We changed the film in the camera, and we might’a lost ‘em. C’est la vie, as they say in the French parts. That means “so what?” in French. Get used to it, American.
So anyway, the reason we had to change the film was that there’s three shipwrecks near the boat (within a hundred feet), and we only saw two of them today, and shot about 36 shots. Ruth is healing up like a pro, so she’s back in the water again. Right ON. We snorkeled off of our fat asses over to those wrecks to succor in the misfortune of others, and BOY, WAS IT AWESOME! There was fish in there, hot dog! Schools of minnows that made beautiful patterns in the water, but never would leave the protection of the boat. Very cool. Ruth and I went down there and found a hatch that the fish were darting in and out of, so we found a net wrapped around a float, and so we cut it loose and used a bunch of old conch shells to weight it down around this hatch, basically making a trap for these fish. By the time we got done, the fish were all scared off of the boat, but the plan is to go back tomorrow, and hopefully the dumb fish will have forgotten that we were there and they’ll be back. The smart sharks and barracuda are probably hoping the dumb humans will forget that they were there tearing apart the bait hanging off the boat, and will just be glad that we’re back.
Just kidding. I put electrical tape over my earrings when we snorkel.
I’d love to stay and chat, but on the way back to the boat we found about 5 bound up conch someone put in bondage and forget about, so we ate dinner, and then Ruth thought I should start drinking beer while I skinned the conch and she made vegetables. Then I got all silly. I’ll talk to you later.

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